Vogue Donna Karan 1159

There are many other reviews of this dress, but here is mine:

Fabric is from Stone Mountain and Daughter in Berkeley. It's labeled as rayon and lycra, but I wouldn't be surprised if there was a little bit of wool in it. After all of the fuss on pattern review, it really wasn't all that hard to make. You just have to be slow and methodical. I used thread tracing to mark the circles/squares for the first time, which was so much easier than trying to make out where my chalk markings escaped to. I also read the instructions about 3 times before proceeding, so I could visualize the construction. I made a size 12, because that it what I had bought to fit my hips. I was worried because I often fit a size 8 bodice in Vogue, and there was no way to make any size alterations on this one! Luckily, it turned out just fine. I did make a couple alterations:

1) Arm hole gapage - I used the pattern alterations from pattern review here. Sadly, the arm holes were still quite gape-y even after bringing them up an inch! I then unstitched and sewed them up at least another inch (it's not a straight seam, so I just matched them up as flush as I could). This ended up taking the bodice in almost an inch on both sides, which compensated well for it being too big in the first place!
2) Length - I initially tried it on and cut off 3 inches (I'm 5'5"). I tried it on again, and realized the front hung much lower than the back, so had to unpin the back and take a very small hem there. If you are like me and don't have a mannequin for fitting, make sure you measure from the floor, not just take off an even amount.
3) Lining - my fabric was relatively thin and drapy, and has more 4 way stretch that it should. I was worried about it stretching out too far, and given the negative ease of the lining, I thought that might lend some support. I used a silky rayon jersey I had left over, which was actually a bit thicker than my fashion fabric. I enlarged the darts to make it snug in the back. It works quite well, and the fabric drapes beautifully over it.
4) Neck gapage - I put in a couple stitches to keep everything in place. This might not be an issue if you are full busted, but would recommend it otherwise. I also put in a stitch where the front crosses.

Overall, I highly recommend this pattern. The finished dress has great draping and is very comfortable to wear.

Vogue 1183 - Kay Unger Dress

The plan was to make a wool tweed dress that was professional enough for work, but not too dull - the Kay Unger dress was perfect for this. It is rated as an easy pattern, but with 12+12 pieces, there is no instant gratification! It is certainly doable by beginners, it just takes some time and patience to line up all of the pieces and do all of the top stitching. It is well worth the effort in the end! I used a silk/wool tweed from gorgeous fabrics. It was my first gorgeous fabrics order, and I think I'm addicted!

I made a few modifications - you can see the pattern alterations below.
1) SBA - I trimmed the curve on piece #2, as well as shaved off about 3/8 inch from the bottom of the side bodice piece as well (see red arrow). Then I had to pinch an equal amount out of the midriff so everything would line up.
2) The neck line initially gaped, so I also pinched out almost 1/2 inch from the neck line ending near the bust point (see fold on piece #1).
3) I also took out 1/2 inch on each side of the zipper tapering to mid-back.
4) I pinched 1/4 inch from the side seams so the arm hole didn't gape. It sounds like I was gaping everywhere!
5) Shorten hem by 1 inch to bring above the knee.
6) Add interfacing to the midriff.

I think that is it. After all of the cropping, maybe I could have started with a smaller size! I started with a size 10 for the bodice, and transitioned to a 12 in the midriff. For some reason my muslin ended up being a little small in the hips, so I initially added a little fabric in there, but ended up taking it out in the end.

Overall I am quite happy with it - the muslin was an absolutely essential step in the process. I'm jealous of people who fit straight sizes! My only major issue is the large front skirt darts - I would be happier if this part was flat, but I was too lazy to change this as well. I could probably have tapered to a size 12 a little lower down than I did too - I have a little too much ease in the belly. Luckily I mostly wear it with a white coat over it so no one will notice! The instructions were fine - I was a bit perplexed by the skirt flap in the back, but just made something up as I had never done this before.

Jalie 2793 Dress

I finally broke down and bought some Jalie patterns - from their 4 for the price of 3 sale (I think it's an ongoing sort of thing). I'm used to buying big 4 patterns on sale at Joann's, so they still seemed quite expensive. As everyone has been saying, they are fabulous! I love having actual paper to cut out. There instructions are brief, but clear with good pictures. There construction of pieces makes so much more sense than big 4 pattern construction. Highly recommended!

I made the Jalie 2793 tunic into a dress.I used a rayon/poly/lycra blend from Fabric.com. I usually don't like poly jersyes, but the rayon seems to save it. The contrast is the leftover red rayon jersey from my previous dress. I used a size R and graded to a size T at the hips. I lengthened it by about 11 inches to make a dress. As you can see below, I initially put in the modesty panel since everyone seemed to say it was necessary, however it looked terrible with the red for some reason. Since I have no cleavage to expose, I think it works just fine without it. The only other change I made is skip the top stitching. Instead I edge stitched the v-neck seam to the back facing before turning over and ironing. It came together easily in a day, and fits perfectly without alteration (it is jersey afterall).

Here are some pics:




Here is the inside of the neck with the stitching and cut out modesty panel:

Vogue 8411 Dress

I've been meaning to start this blog for some time now. I've learned how to sew thanks to the many blogs and tutorials available on the web, and so I would like to share my sewing with others going through the same process. So here goes...

As for the dress, it's made out of a lightweight rayon from denverfabrics. Many people on patternreview said that it was super easy and quick - I am a beginner, so I would hardly characterize it has quick, but definitely is doable. This *was* my first time putting sleeves on something after all! The instructions were easy to follow. Sizing was much to big as others have stated - I cut a 10, then took in the side seams at least an inch on both sides of the top bodice and a little bit in the back seam to make a more fitted look. The pleating was not difficult, but time consuming. I did hand baste, which was slow going, but worked fine. The sleeves I did incorrectly, so they are a little tight on the shoulders. I have now found this excellent tutorial which I will attempt next time: here. I also found a new technique for gathering, which i pulled the bobbin and top thread through the machine so there was enough to match the whole length of the gather. I then did a zig zag stitch over it like many do over a piece of cotton yarn (which I didn't have). All you have to do is pull the 2 threads through and you have a gather without tying any knots or anything. It's a pleasant, comfortable dress. Unfortunately it is still too hot to wear it around here this time of year!


The wrinkles are strangely much more prominent in the sun than in person! Maybe I will iron before shooting next time.