Butterick 5559

This is a delightfully easy - if somewhat detail oriented - pattern. I used a wonderful thick wool double knit from Stone Mountain and Daughter in Berkeley. It was my first time using a double knit because I don't like poly, and it is hard to find wool double knit, especially at a reasonable price. I had 1.5 yards, and it shrunk like the dickens. I barely had enough to cut it out. The pattern was easy to follow. I cut a 10 on top and 12 on bottom, but still ended up using 6/8" seams on the top and 3/8" seams at the hips. The other change was adding 1" to the hem as others said it was too short (all I could eke out from my fabric). I ended up doing a 2" hem, so only added 1/2" to the pattern length - it hits an inch or two above the knees. I finally broke down and used an orange thread to make tailors tacks to mark the fold lines - easy but time consuming. For the tucks I used my 1/4" quilting hem foot and a stretch stitch so the fabric has a little give. On the plus side, the seams met up pretty well on the side, without having to pick anything out. Despite my hatred of facings, I followed the pattern instructions on this one. I just had to tack it down in the front and back - it works fine, and I like not having any top stitching at the neck. For the hem I did a hand catch stitch. Fit is pretty good with the above changes. I didn't do an SBA due to the complicated and assymetric folds - luckily none needed after all. A little swayback adjustment would have been useful - again, not sure how to do that. All in all, a great pattern - highly recommended!

Here are the pics: