Jalie 2911 - take 2

I've clearly been on a Jalie kick - maybe I'll get the courage up to make the jeans soon, that's the only one I haven't tried yet. I finally found a use for that oh-so-thick and non-stretchy Vera Wang Lavendar Collection grey wool jersey from Fabric.com - another on-line semi-bust! It worked out well for this. I made the Jalie top with the hood. My first version was a thick wool jersey with the collar, and looks terrible, so we won't discuss it here! Because it was so thick, I decided to do a contrast for the inside of the hood, and chose a Denverfabrics very lightweight red wool jersey. This was the only alteration I made to the pattern - you have to just add a 1/4" seam allowance to the hood piece, and cut 4 of them. I sewed the two contrasting pieces together, then proceeded with the instructions as given. Now if only I had remembered to pre-wash the fabric first! Will hem after throwing it through a cold wash, and see how much damage is done. I'm enjoying it until then....

Jalie 2682 - take 3

Quick, easy to put together, interesting construction for the front, looks fabulous on everyone I've seen it on. My only complaint is the number of back pieces - I'm just not quite sure why it needs so many, so I got rid of them on the last try.

I did the first one in a drab brown wool jersey from denverfabrics. I need to stop ordering fabrics from them because nearly every time I am disappointed - either it is a different thickness than I expect, the color is off, or something. I do much better from Fabric.com or obviously in person, although Sacramento isn't abounding with fabric store options. Somehow it was a different color in my head. It is however a nice thickness and quite warm. I did try the Jalie non-serger method of zig-zag stitching the edges, then stretching the fabric and doing a straight stitch. I finds the fabric gets a little stretched out with this method and doesn't lie flat. For the Jalie patterns I've found that using my 1/4" quilting foot with a straight stretch stitch to make a nice even line (can I say I *love* the 1/4" seam allowances?), followed by a zig zag using the Janome overlock foot (not sure what it should be called, but keeps the fabric in place for sewing to the edge of the fabric) works well. I seriously need a serger. Otherwise the shirts came together exactly as described in the instructions. Again I used an R and graded to a T at the hips. I had to take off nearly 2 inches total from the sleeves in the end to make them narrower, and I took a smidge off of the side bodice just below the chest to make it more fitted.

The second one is a lovely thin black knit remnant from a store in Portland. I'm not sure what it is made of - perhaps a cotton/wool blend. For the sleeves I just folded over 1/4" once and did a straight stretch stitch.

The third one, and the only one with a picture right now, is a purple wool/rayon jersey from Discount Fabrics in SF. I somehow thought I did the first one with a yard of fabric, but obviously not because it took a whole lot of jigsaw puzzle-ing to make it work! The fabric is cut at 90 degrees to the grain rather than on the grain, but it's hard to tell. Same steps as above, except had to do narrow cuffs for the sleeves (not enough fabric) and cut the back out as one piece, and I am much happier about it! Not to mention a time-saver.

Here is the front:


Here is the back. I could definitely use a swayback...

Jalie 2793 Dress

I finally broke down and bought some Jalie patterns - from their 4 for the price of 3 sale (I think it's an ongoing sort of thing). I'm used to buying big 4 patterns on sale at Joann's, so they still seemed quite expensive. As everyone has been saying, they are fabulous! I love having actual paper to cut out. There instructions are brief, but clear with good pictures. There construction of pieces makes so much more sense than big 4 pattern construction. Highly recommended!

I made the Jalie 2793 tunic into a dress.I used a rayon/poly/lycra blend from Fabric.com. I usually don't like poly jersyes, but the rayon seems to save it. The contrast is the leftover red rayon jersey from my previous dress. I used a size R and graded to a size T at the hips. I lengthened it by about 11 inches to make a dress. As you can see below, I initially put in the modesty panel since everyone seemed to say it was necessary, however it looked terrible with the red for some reason. Since I have no cleavage to expose, I think it works just fine without it. The only other change I made is skip the top stitching. Instead I edge stitched the v-neck seam to the back facing before turning over and ironing. It came together easily in a day, and fits perfectly without alteration (it is jersey afterall).

Here are some pics:




Here is the inside of the neck with the stitching and cut out modesty panel:

A Plus A-Line Skirt

I've never used a pattern to make a skirt before, so I'm not sure why I decided it was a good idea to use one that I had to print out 51 pages for! It's available on Burdastyle here. I think it turned out pretty well. The printing *is* a hassle, and Wenlan's patterns give you the whole piece not a half piece with a fold line, which means twice as many pages to print and piece together. It's okay if you have a good movie to watch. I used a cotton-mystery fabric blend from the stash. Her directions are adequate, although not particularly detailed. I followed them pretty much exactly. It fit to size, although I wanted it to sit a little lower on my waist, so I added 1/8th inch to the yoke pattern pieces. I did put the top stitching at 1/8th inch rather than 1cm or so as suggested. I used a blind-hem stich for the hem.

Not my best inside work, but will do:
Here's the zipper on the inside. I usually machine sew not slip stitch as recommended. It works except is a little wonky at the bottom.


Somehow the yoke seams line up better on the zipper side than the right side! I should put in a hook and eye:

Six Panelled Skirt Pattern Tutorial

The easiest pattern to make to fit yourself! Here it is: I just used a trapezoidal piece of newspaper based on my measured waist circumference divided by 6 and hip circumference divided by 6, as pictured below. Just add seam allowances and you have a lovely pattern. I sewed the 6 panels together, taking in an extra dart on the two back ones. I then made facings by tracing the pieced together skirt, ironed on some interfacing and sewed it inside. I put in a side invisible zipper. One of my skirts I used french seams and put in a lining, the other I just did normal seams, no lining, and probably didn't even tack down the facing. For the one above I used a 1.5 yards of a dobby cotton Kokka fabric - not sure who the designer was.



Look - french seams! Usually I'm too scared to do French seams because they seem so permanent. The bottom overlay of dupioni silk is done in an unusual fashion since I didn't know how to sew a curve at the time. I simply cut out a piece of fabric the same size as the bottom curve of the skirt, then put wrong sides together to sew the bottom hem. I flipped the dupioni over, folded it under, and top stitched. It actually makes a neat hem because there is no hem stitching, and the french seams are hardly visible. For the lining I just used the rolled hem foot on my sewing machine.
Here's the invisible zipper with lining:
Here's a view of the top stitching:

Vogue 8396 Gauchos

This pattern seems to be now out of print, but actually is a very easy and quick pant for lounging around in. I used a stretch knit cotton, also from denverfabrics. They do fit relatively acurately to size. The design had straight legs down from the waist, so I took them in a bit at the thigh so they flair out some. I've left them un-hemmed at the bottom, mostly out of laziness. I might do a twin needle stitch if I get around to it, but I kind of like the curled hems you get with 2 way stretch knits.

Vogue 8411 Dress

I've been meaning to start this blog for some time now. I've learned how to sew thanks to the many blogs and tutorials available on the web, and so I would like to share my sewing with others going through the same process. So here goes...

As for the dress, it's made out of a lightweight rayon from denverfabrics. Many people on patternreview said that it was super easy and quick - I am a beginner, so I would hardly characterize it has quick, but definitely is doable. This *was* my first time putting sleeves on something after all! The instructions were easy to follow. Sizing was much to big as others have stated - I cut a 10, then took in the side seams at least an inch on both sides of the top bodice and a little bit in the back seam to make a more fitted look. The pleating was not difficult, but time consuming. I did hand baste, which was slow going, but worked fine. The sleeves I did incorrectly, so they are a little tight on the shoulders. I have now found this excellent tutorial which I will attempt next time: here. I also found a new technique for gathering, which i pulled the bobbin and top thread through the machine so there was enough to match the whole length of the gather. I then did a zig zag stitch over it like many do over a piece of cotton yarn (which I didn't have). All you have to do is pull the 2 threads through and you have a gather without tying any knots or anything. It's a pleasant, comfortable dress. Unfortunately it is still too hot to wear it around here this time of year!


The wrinkles are strangely much more prominent in the sun than in person! Maybe I will iron before shooting next time.